Over the holiday my
niece Wendy and I were reminiscing about our separate trips to Venice
and it reminded me of the time that my friend Douglas and I spent a
month in Italy. We were lodging in Monasteries and, besides the
affordability, we’d been pleasantly surprised at the convenience,
the cleanliness and the wonderful hospitality that had been extended
to us. We stayed in Rome, Orvieto, Bavagna, Gubbio, Cortona and
Florence and now it was on to Venice... our destination, the Casa
Caburlotta. (the middle building shown in the picture.)
When I made the
reservations I had been careful to explain to the Sisters that
Douglas and I were not married. Some of the Monasteries were very
strict about this and I wanted to make sure they knew that we were
traveling friends and would be staying in separate rooms. It was
early evening when we arrived and we couldn’t see a light in any of
the windows. This didn’t bode well but we pulled the door rope and
were rewarded with a bell tone that was loud enough to wake the dead.
It didn’t seem to wake the Sisters, however, and it took 3 bell
pulls and 15 minutes before a very old nun dressed completely in
black (and with a dark frown to match) opened the door. I had
verification of our reservations and I presented it to the Sister.
She took a long time pouring over the document and finally allowed us
to enter. She pointed to a chair and, with hand gestures, instructed
Douglas to sit! Then she took my arm and we proceeded to the second
floor where she showed me my room and gave me a small packet of
instructions. I realized that I was in for the night and hoped I’d
catch up with Douglas at breakfast.
My room was quite
sparse but very clean and comfortable. The next morning I did find
Douglas in the breakfast room and he was still chuckling. It seems
that the Sister situated him about as far away from me as possible.
He was in the students quarters on the top floor and access to his
room was by a set of stairs far removed from mine. However, it was
our good fortune to meet a fellow traveler at breakfast who had
stayed many times at the Monastery. He said that he didn’t think
there was a Sister there under the age of 80 and that they were very
strict but loving. I had my doubts about the “loving” part but we
were there for four days regardless.
The next days were
filled with all that Venice has to offer. We’d leave early in the
morning and return after dinner. The Sisters were thawing a bit
toward us...although they still made sure that we separated in the
front hall before we retired to our rooms. On the morning that we
left I was amazed when the most austere of the sisters said she had a
remembrance for me. She gave me a hug and a small glass pendant from
Morano. I will always cherish that gift, but it was the gift of her
smile that I will remember forever...it truly was “loving”.
My trip was entirely
different from the one Wendy took. She spent 3 months there on an
arts Fellowship at the Scuola Internazionale de Grafica. If you
want to savor the “real” Venice in all its glory click on here:
http://wendyhansenstudio.blogspot.com/2012/10/virtuosity-venezia.html